TIPS AND TECHNIQUES: CREATING A “MOTTLED” LOOK
1. Stamp Your Image: Stamp image on matte paper. If using a dye ink, I recommend a waterproof ink. Heat set to make sure that it’s dry. You can also
heat emboss for a raised image.
2. Apply Ink Color Background to Image: Using a dye ink - very wet (i.e. Vivid, Big and Juicy, etc.), rub the ink pad across the paper. You can also use a brayer to apply the ink.
3. While ink is wet, spritz “lightly” with a light color (Memories Mists, Glimmer Mists, etc.) You can use more than one color working from light to dark. When spraying, let the ink just fall or mist over the card design. Spray from about 1 foot away. FYI: I generally put my card inside a cardboard box tipped on its side. That way I contain the spray.
4. For “Mottled” Look to Appear: Immediately after misting, dry with a heat tool. Note the “mottled” look.
TIPS AND TECHNIQUES: STAMPING WITH PHOTO STAMPS
I love using photo stamps and have 2 in our collection of images, but sometimes these stamps can be tricky to use. Thus, a few tips:
*Inks that I recommend: Archival inks andVersafine. Others have recommended Stazon, Adirondack, and chalk inks.
*Make sure image is free of lint, etc. Running a sticky lint roller/or tape over the
rubber can help clean the surface.
*Ink with a brayer and ink in various directions to ensure complete coverage.
*If you don’t have a brayer ( a must, and we have them in stock!), place rubber stamp with image side up and tap the ink onto the stamp. Be sure to look at your stamp to be sure it is well covered and not over inked before use. If you can’t see the “picture” image on the rubber or ink has beaded up, then too much ink has been used.
*If your photo stamp is unmounted, create a cushion under the cardstock using a craft mat, mouse pad, or old magazine.
*When stamping your image, be sure to keep the rubber stamp parallel to the paper
as you lower it, and press all areas of your stamp firmly, but not so hard that the
stamp slides. Glossy paper can cause the stamp to slide - place your stamp on the paper carefully and slowly to help avoid this. Be careful not to rock this stamp as this will lead to a blurred impression.
*Before lifting the stamp, hold onto the paper surface and pick the stamp straight up.
Let ink dry.
*Glossy paper gives the best results, but you can use matte coated paper.
TIPS AND TECHNIQUES:
BRINGING BACK THE BLENDER PEN
Recently, someone asked me about a blender pen. It is a dual tip marker which is filled with clear blending fluid. The pen can be used with ink pads, markers, watercolor pencils and chalks to provide several tones of the same color.
For example, stamp an image using a water based pad. Then lightly stroke the outline to bring color toward the center. The result is that the outline is the darkest color, but there are different shades going inward. This color contrast provides depth.
Color with color pencils and then go over the markings with the blender pen. Makes the colors brighter and smoothes out the lines.
Use the pen to apply chalk to the paper. The pen intensifies the colors as well as works the chalk into the paper so that it’s less likely to come off the paper.
Cleaning the pen tip is easy. Just lightly scribble the tip onto scrap paper until all the color comes off the pen. It might still be stained at this point, but it will work without contaminating future artwork.
CLEANING METAL STENCILS
Most of the time, a little soap and water clean up the stencils. However, over a period of time, they can become discolored. Wipe rubbing alcohol (I prefer 91%) over the stencil with a soft cloth. Then rinse in water. If necessary, repeat.
CREATING REFLECTION DIE CUTS
*Using a Spellbinder’s die, cut and emboss one die cut as usual.
*Use the same die and cut another die cut, but do not emboss it.
*Rather. remove the die cut and flip over the die so that the cut edge is face down.
*Align the die cut on top of the die.
*Put the embossing mat on top of the die cutand then the final mat. Emboss as usual.
*Remove the die cut from the die, voila, you have a “mirror” image die cut.
PUNCHES
Before purchasing a punch from a shop/store, ask to try it it out. I make it a practice to do this at the shop as every so often a punch is defective and despite the suggestions below, it won’t work. This will save you from having to spend your time and money on gas to return the punch.
Also, check with the shop owner about the punch’s ability to cut through cardstock. Some punches, especially the intricate patterns, are designed to only cut through text weight paper. This information is usually not on the package, so if the shop owner doesn’t know, then s/he can contact a company rep.
I so enjoy working with punches, but will admit that occasionally they can be “challenging” to use, especially when paper gets stuck. Here are some suggestions compiled from my own experiences and research to consider when a punch is:
Clogging - This tends to happen when one is using very thin paper (i.e. wrapping paper). Place a piece of photocopier paper on top of the “thin”
paper and punch through both layers.
Jamming - Perhaps the paper is too thick. First, try turning the punch upside down and thumping the “button” several times on a hard surface.
If that doesn’t work, then pop the cover off the punch. Take the punch apart so you can remove the stuck paper. Put the pieces back in this order: spring, button, outer cover. Press cover down to connect with the bottom piece.
Stiff - punch through waxed paper several times. This helps to loosen it. I also use Punch Doctor spray or Paper Cutter by Paper Glide on stiff punches.
Tearing - If paper is being torn, not cut, then punch several times through layers of aluminum foil.
Keep punches in a dry area. Some people recommend using silica sachets that are in new shoes or purses as these absorb problem causing moisture.
Did you know that you can punch polymer clay to make embellishments? The clay needs to be rolled thin enough to fit through the “slot”. Dust both sides lightly with baby powder before inserting into the punch
UNSTICKING PAPER FROM DIES
If paper tends to stick inside a die (especially very intricate dies), put a piece of wax paper between the die and paper before you run the die through the machine. Voila! The paper pops away from the die.
USING INK PADS TO CREATE WATERCOLORS
Gentle press a water based ink pad cover so that the inside touches the ink pad. Open and remove the ink off the cover with a wet brush. When you’re finished painting, wipe the cover clean before placing over the ink pad.
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